Sunday, December 25, 2005
Kids waving goodbye
as I left the Muslim part of Bombay this afternoon. Kids have been wonderful here; everytime I stop for water or to consult a map a crowd of children forms around me, and they ask all sorts of questions about my 'tats, the stuff they see me using (GPS receiver, iPod, digital camera, BlackBerry, mobile phone, Apple Macintosh PowerBook, or HP iPaq), where I'm from, what I'm doing here and other queries. They insist upon listening to my music or having me take a picture of them and usually want another of me standing with them. They seemed totally surprised that I watch Hanuman cartoons like they do, and are every bit as curious about me as I am about how a child spends his or her time growing up here in this absolutely wonderful Indian city named Bombay. Fantastic.
More pix from the bazzars
Things aren't going too well for these birds....
Cart and driver and motor
This woman and her daughers were shopping - I wanted to take more but had to be careful...
A family of dawgs all living together...
A proud dealer in baubles and such...
The back of a Taxi meter
I have absolutely no idea what this means....at least in Bombay!
A nice place to rest....
The Muslim Markets
They have some stunning architecture in this part of Bombay. These pix were taken just north of Crawford Market.
Cows
So this afternoon I wanted to head back to the Muslim part of town, walk around for a while and generally enjoy a day without Christmas. Which they were celebrating big time at the hotel.
So I approach a taxi, negotiate a rate and we head off. We get about two thirds of the way there and the car halts. I know I'm really close because I've not only studied maps of Bombay before visiting, I've also got a GPS receiver always switched on when I'm in a foreign country. I'm iPoding and have negotiated a fixed rate on the trip, so initially I don't give the delay any mind. Five minutes later I'm wondering what's up. Of course the driver doesn't really speak English so I have no idea. I pay him the full fare and get out to walk since I'm so close.
I pass ten or fifteen stopped cars and finally see the cause of the problem: a cow is standing in the middle of the road, placidly chewing it's cud and blocking traffic. Well, away from the cow's perspective horns are blowing, people going both ways are blocked and getting all agitated and yelling at each other, a little mano-to-mano pushing is going on, but nobody is reaching into their boots (trunks , in 'Merican) to get their cattle prod out and do what has to be done.
Amazing. As in amazingly wonderful.
So I approach a taxi, negotiate a rate and we head off. We get about two thirds of the way there and the car halts. I know I'm really close because I've not only studied maps of Bombay before visiting, I've also got a GPS receiver always switched on when I'm in a foreign country. I'm iPoding and have negotiated a fixed rate on the trip, so initially I don't give the delay any mind. Five minutes later I'm wondering what's up. Of course the driver doesn't really speak English so I have no idea. I pay him the full fare and get out to walk since I'm so close.
I pass ten or fifteen stopped cars and finally see the cause of the problem: a cow is standing in the middle of the road, placidly chewing it's cud and blocking traffic. Well, away from the cow's perspective horns are blowing, people going both ways are blocked and getting all agitated and yelling at each other, a little mano-to-mano pushing is going on, but nobody is reaching into their boots (trunks , in 'Merican) to get their cattle prod out and do what has to be done.
Amazing. As in amazingly wonderful.
Saturday, December 24, 2005
Horn OK Please?
Yeh, this is a point I make repeatedly to people who have spent limited time (or not time at all) outside the United States; just because people speak English is no guarantee that you'll understand what they're saying.
Don't ask me what it means...'cause I don't know!
Don't ask me what it means...'cause I don't know!
Woke up early
had a nice breakfast in one of the hotels restaurnats and then headed over to Rhythm House to pick up some blank DVDs.
I'd taken a little over 1,000 pix at this point, and wanted to backup my Mac. They've got an incredible music section, and I'll have to stop back before I leave Bombay. Along the way I ran into some Indian cats living rough.
I'd taken a little over 1,000 pix at this point, and wanted to backup my Mac. They've got an incredible music section, and I'll have to stop back before I leave Bombay. Along the way I ran into some Indian cats living rough.
Friday, December 23, 2005
Another mellow night
I'm pretty tired after the safari and cave trip today. The later was probably more tiring, as we had to hike up several mountain tops, then down into each of the caves we explored. Up and down, down and up, sometimes the rock face was pretty slippery and treacherous. But it was worth it. The safari was a different kind of tiring, as the bus had neither a suspension nor roads - we were driving through raw bush for a good part of the trek. My back and butt are aching from all the bumps we took today.
So it's another nite in my suite here at the hotel. Just got back from dinner, quick shower then a long session in my suites sauna. And gusess what's up now?
I've got maybe another ten more episodes of of Cowboy Bebop anime to watch before I've finished the series. That 42" plasma LCD TV certainly makes anime come alive!
I'm up early and headed to the Muslim part of Bombay tomorrow.
So it's another nite in my suite here at the hotel. Just got back from dinner, quick shower then a long session in my suites sauna. And gusess what's up now?
I've got maybe another ten more episodes of of Cowboy Bebop anime to watch before I've finished the series. That 42" plasma LCD TV certainly makes anime come alive!
I'm up early and headed to the Muslim part of Bombay tomorrow.
Didn't know I'd gotten her....
until I was reviewing my day's pix in detail
as seen from the safety of the safari bus...
...still cowering in the bus, but I've cropped and enlarged a little. When we all were looking out the windows (at the guides direction), I couldn't see because of sun, but just clicked in the same general direction as everyone else. Three pix captured the female at rest. Wonderful.
as seen from the safety of the safari bus...
...still cowering in the bus, but I've cropped and enlarged a little. When we all were looking out the windows (at the guides direction), I couldn't see because of sun, but just clicked in the same general direction as everyone else. Three pix captured the female at rest. Wonderful.
And a pair of lions!
The female was tougher to see, all hidden in the underbrush. But the male was right up against the fence separating the game preserve from neighboring homes. I'd hate to live there - my guide told me that every now and then a lion or tiger will get out and go hunting...most of the time they'll take a farm animal, but attacks on people are not unheard of. Still, I imagine it's beautiful - I was captivated by the sounds of the elephants, lions and monkeys while there (didn't hear a tiger, to the best of my knowledge)
A White Tiger!
This Safari was a real blast! Lots of driving around in our small cramped bus, looking for animals, getting all bored & frustrated and THEN
we saw a WHITE TIGER!
we saw a WHITE TIGER!
Monkey Business in the jungle
I ran across this family of monkey's while approaching Sanjay Ghandi National Park. 
Like Mom's everywhere, she was fussing over the baby...
...while Father stood a watchful guard.
Like Mom's everywhere, she was fussing over the baby...
...while Father stood a watchful guard.
Ancient Buddhist caves on top of a mountain...
The Kanheri Caves are found about five km north of Sanjay Ghandi National Park.
They were carved out of the soft sandstone by Buddhist Monks, and are located on top of a small mountain. The roads leading into and out of the Kanheri Caves are little more than dirt and rut filled paths. It took our car maybe one hour to go those five km.
But the trip was worth it. The caves are full of not only statues, but also living quarters for probably hundred of monks. They even carved cisterns and drainage systems out of the soft rock; these stil stand today, and, full of water, evidentially still work.
Thursday, December 22, 2005
Bombay Belly is rude, dude.
Would really like to go out and walk around some more, but I managed to book a safari to a game park up north for tomorrow morning. Besides, with my - ahemm, affliction , I can't stray too far from a bathroom.
I'm hanging out at the hotel tonight. Drinking aussie Shiraz and plenty of water.
Watching more episodes of Cowboy Bebop anime on that absolutely beautiful 42" plasma LCD TV. The quad speaker sound system kicks ass!
I'm hanging out at the hotel tonight. Drinking aussie Shiraz and plenty of water.
Watching more episodes of Cowboy Bebop anime on that absolutely beautiful 42" plasma LCD TV. The quad speaker sound system kicks ass!
Dinner - will it stay or will it go?
Tonight I ate at Leopolds , an indian pub / restaurant that's very popular with both travellers and cosmopolitan Indians.
I had some vegtable curry over saffron rice, with a couple glasses of this Indian Shiraz. All in all, a good meal although as fast as I keep shoving it in it keeps....anyhow, some folks chose to eat at this fine dining establishment!
I guess as much as westerners are attracted to Indian food, they're attracted to our "food". Fair enough, but they really should see SuperSize Me .
Sound: Autechre, "Basscadet", from "Incunabula".
I had some vegtable curry over saffron rice, with a couple glasses of this Indian Shiraz. All in all, a good meal although as fast as I keep shoving it in it keeps....anyhow, some folks chose to eat at this fine dining establishment!
I guess as much as westerners are attracted to Indian food, they're attracted to our "food". Fair enough, but they really should see SuperSize Me .
Sound: Autechre, "Basscadet", from "Incunabula".
The Dabbawallahs of Bombay
The Dubbawallahs provide a needed service - lunch delivery - to tens and maybe hundreds of thousands of Bombay office workers. Here's how it works: the husband goes to work in the morning, without a lunch. Keep in mind that Indians are a wonderfully frugal people, so purchasing a hot meal at midday is out of the question. Instead, the wife stays home and cooks a meal, and packs it hot into four or five stainless steel boxes - dabbas . At roughly 11AM these are picked up from the home by the Dabbawallahs, who deliver the containers to the appropriate office. The empty containers, cleaned and ready to be resused, are returned home by 2PM or so. Typically Dubbawallahs are migrants from the City of Pune.
Sound: Autechre, "Bike", from "Incunabula".
Sound: Autechre, "Bike", from "Incunabula".
Mingling
These kids just won't go away...
I think he was selling roasted sweet potatoes...too bad I've still got cramps otherwise I would have tried some.
The bustling streets
Folks seem fascinated by the my 'tats. Most seem to have smallish ones, almost always on their hands, but find the idea of having both arms covered fascinating.
Some mosque. Wonderful, how all these different faiths live together in peace.
The famous Sai Babba, I've heard of him even back in London.
Look who they're worshiping now!
Sound: Shpongle, various tracks.
A wall of Gods
greeting me as I entered the slums below the railway bridge.
There were probably over 100 of these images on all the nearby walls. Looking back at the bridge I could see a cluster of white faces looking down at me. The other western tourists all seemed aghast, that someone would even consider going down. But how the hell can you see how folks live if you don't get down and mingle with them? Well, I guess if I was dressed and looked like I was out for a day of shopping at a Wal-Mart store I'd probably stay up on the bridge as well. Why some folks wander around places like this in shorts, t-shirts and sandals is beyond me...
Sound: Shpongle, "Molecular Superstructure", from "Nothing lasts...But Nothing".
There were probably over 100 of these images on all the nearby walls. Looking back at the bridge I could see a cluster of white faces looking down at me. The other western tourists all seemed aghast, that someone would even consider going down. But how the hell can you see how folks live if you don't get down and mingle with them? Well, I guess if I was dressed and looked like I was out for a day of shopping at a Wal-Mart store I'd probably stay up on the bridge as well. Why some folks wander around places like this in shorts, t-shirts and sandals is beyond me...
Sound: Shpongle, "Molecular Superstructure", from "Nothing lasts...But Nothing".
Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat
Located just around the corner from Mahalaxmi railway station, this open air laundry is supposed to the be the largest in Bombay. With some 5,000 or so people working here, it's definitely much larger than the laundry I first visited.
Theses pix were all taken from a bridge overlooking the Dhobi Ghat. Full of western tourists all jostling for position, accosted by vendors and beggars I got my fill in about two minutes. I decided to head down, into the Dhobi Ghat to see how the folks lived in the teeming slums below.
Sound: Shpongle, "Dorset Perception", from "Tales of the Inexpressible".
Theses pix were all taken from a bridge overlooking the Dhobi Ghat. Full of western tourists all jostling for position, accosted by vendors and beggars I got my fill in about two minutes. I decided to head down, into the Dhobi Ghat to see how the folks lived in the teeming slums below.
Sound: Shpongle, "Dorset Perception", from "Tales of the Inexpressible".
I took a slow train north
From Churchgate Station, located about a fifteen minute taxi ride from the hotel.
First class ticket, any car but that car!
At Mahalaxmhi Station, headed up the stairs
And out of the station...
I was headed to the Dhobi Ghat
Sound: Shpongle, "Monster Hit" from "Are you Shpongled?"
That which does not kill....
Got woken up in the middle with sharp abdominal pains. Felt like someone was squeezing my bowels and, as a matter of fact, someone must have been because it all came rushing - well, you get the idea.
Still wasn't better by the AM and when I asked The Conceirge about Oral Rehydration Salts, (I had some in my first aid kit but used the last of the batch in Lagos, Nigeria and forgot to replenish) they insisted upon sending up a Doctor.
So the Doctor drops in for a chat. He examined me, gave the 'tats more than a once over, and then asked about my diet while in Bombay. I wasn't going to lie to him but I knew what was coming. When I mentioned that I'd been taking almost all of my meals from street vendors he first looked surprised (apparently most guests in The Taj are too good to eat from the street) then he exclaimed "Sir! You mustn't ever do that!!" Like I knew he'd say. He gave me the ORS and left me to self-administer in peace. "I've done this before Doc" I assured him as he left my suite.
This was the only new place I ate from yesterday
What else can I say but the flies certainly looked and acted healthy, big as bumblebees and buzzing about aggressively.
Still got pretty bad pains and cramps, but I'm heading up north today. Guess I'll find out what the inside of an Indian public toilet looks like. Heh.
Still wasn't better by the AM and when I asked The Conceirge about Oral Rehydration Salts, (I had some in my first aid kit but used the last of the batch in Lagos, Nigeria and forgot to replenish) they insisted upon sending up a Doctor.
So the Doctor drops in for a chat. He examined me, gave the 'tats more than a once over, and then asked about my diet while in Bombay. I wasn't going to lie to him but I knew what was coming. When I mentioned that I'd been taking almost all of my meals from street vendors he first looked surprised (apparently most guests in The Taj are too good to eat from the street) then he exclaimed "Sir! You mustn't ever do that!!" Like I knew he'd say. He gave me the ORS and left me to self-administer in peace. "I've done this before Doc" I assured him as he left my suite.
This was the only new place I ate from yesterday
What else can I say but the flies certainly looked and acted healthy, big as bumblebees and buzzing about aggressively.
Still got pretty bad pains and cramps, but I'm heading up north today. Guess I'll find out what the inside of an Indian public toilet looks like. Heh.
Wednesday, December 21, 2005
All dressed up and no place to go...
I was going to see my tailor Aziz when I ran across these two horses.
I have no idea why they were there, just tied to a tree. At night. Just hanging out. All dressed up and apparently with no place to go.
I stopped by the tailors for a final fitting and WOW! Everyone should get a tailor made suit - they fit you like a glove! I never realised how off the rack suit jackets tugged at my shoulders until this evening when I tried on my first tailor made suit. It won't be my last.
Best of all is the price - I'm getting two suits, one sport jacket and five shirts, all custom made,for about 23,700 rupees. That's about 300 pounds. The fact that they were made to order for that price in less than 48 hours makes the entire deal that much more unbelievable. As before, Aziz will keep my measurements and will be mailing me a shirt every month until I've completely replaced my existing business wardrobe.
I have no idea why they were there, just tied to a tree. At night. Just hanging out. All dressed up and apparently with no place to go.
I stopped by the tailors for a final fitting and WOW! Everyone should get a tailor made suit - they fit you like a glove! I never realised how off the rack suit jackets tugged at my shoulders until this evening when I tried on my first tailor made suit. It won't be my last.
Best of all is the price - I'm getting two suits, one sport jacket and five shirts, all custom made,for about 23,700 rupees. That's about 300 pounds. The fact that they were made to order for that price in less than 48 hours makes the entire deal that much more unbelievable. As before, Aziz will keep my measurements and will be mailing me a shirt every month until I've completely replaced my existing business wardrobe.
And the vultures circled....
I headed to North Bombay today, to an area called "Malabar Hill". I wanted to see something called "The Tower of Silence", but couldn't get anywhere near it.
The Parsi are Persians that migrated to India in the 17th and 18th centuries. They practice a religion known as "Zoroastria", and don't bury their dead, instead placing them in a tower - The Tower of Silence - where the bodies are then consumed by vultures. You can see the vultures circling the tower area in this pic below.
I couldn't get close to the tower itself. At all. I swear I must have met the only honest security guard in India, because I couldn't bribe my way in, and I've been liberally spreading cash around here when needed to visit places that are normally off limits. I did try with this guy, and went up to 2,000 rupees but he wasn't having it.
I find this stuff fascinating. Western Society has such strong opinions on how to handle dead people. And that means either burn 'em, or bury 'em, and that's about it.
The entire idea of The Tower of Silence reminded me a lot of Cairo's Cities of the Dead, that I've visited several times.
Sound: Silence, out of respect for the dead.
The Parsi are Persians that migrated to India in the 17th and 18th centuries. They practice a religion known as "Zoroastria", and don't bury their dead, instead placing them in a tower - The Tower of Silence - where the bodies are then consumed by vultures. You can see the vultures circling the tower area in this pic below.
I couldn't get close to the tower itself. At all. I swear I must have met the only honest security guard in India, because I couldn't bribe my way in, and I've been liberally spreading cash around here when needed to visit places that are normally off limits. I did try with this guy, and went up to 2,000 rupees but he wasn't having it.
I find this stuff fascinating. Western Society has such strong opinions on how to handle dead people. And that means either burn 'em, or bury 'em, and that's about it.
The entire idea of The Tower of Silence reminded me a lot of Cairo's Cities of the Dead, that I've visited several times.
Sound: Silence, out of respect for the dead.
More kids that never saw a Mutant before!
Everyhwere I go here these crowds of kids seem to develop. Strange.
Sound: Orbital, "Nothing Left 2" from "Middle of Nowhere"
Living rough
On Chowpatty Beach.
Entire familes, with everything in the world they own with them, doing the best they can.
Sound: Orbital, "Nothing Left 2" from "Middle of Nowhere"
Entire familes, with everything in the world they own with them, doing the best they can.
Sound: Orbital, "Nothing Left 2" from "Middle of Nowhere"
Forever, or just until high tide?
On Chowpatty Beach, I saw a young couple. He was doodling something in the sand with a stick. He finished, she smiled, pecked him on the cheek and then they strolled off, hand in hand.
I don't speak or read Hindi, but I think I know what this says.
Sound: Orbital, "Nothing Left 2" from "Middle of Nowhere"
I don't speak or read Hindi, but I think I know what this says.
Sound: Orbital, "Nothing Left 2" from "Middle of Nowhere"
You see religious symbols all over here
Tucked into a knot in a tree, for example.
Sound: Orbital, "Nothing Left 1" from "Middle of Nowhere"
Sound: Orbital, "Nothing Left 1" from "Middle of Nowhere"
They kept us out of accidents
I have no idea what these gods were, but even as my driver darted in and out of Bombay's bustling traffic, they kept us safe.
Sound: Orbital, "Know Where to Run" from "Middle of Nowhere"
Sound: Orbital, "Know Where to Run" from "Middle of Nowhere"
Incredibly frugal people
I got my shoes fixed today. Here is a pic taken of them about one year ago in Cairo.
And after
I had to go to two guys to get them repaired; each worked on differnt parts of the shoes.
I bought these Doc Martens back in New York in 1991, and always said I'd get ten years outta them. Thanks to these guys it looks like I'm good for another ten or even more.
Sound: Orbital, "I don't know you people" from "Middle of Nowhere"
And after
I had to go to two guys to get them repaired; each worked on differnt parts of the shoes.
I bought these Doc Martens back in New York in 1991, and always said I'd get ten years outta them. Thanks to these guys it looks like I'm good for another ten or even more.
Sound: Orbital, "I don't know you people" from "Middle of Nowhere"
Tuesday, December 20, 2005
'Chillin
Watching Cowboy Bebop anime on that slamming 42" plasma LCD TV. Nice bottle of Aussie Shiraz and just being all mellow and shit after another day of physical exertion. Missed me massages as I was in the jungle today. Planning tomorrows walkabout as I slowly drift off to sleep.
Sound: Underworld, "Born sleepy" from "dubnobasswithmyheadman"
The Taj Palace and Taj Tower at night
The Taj Tower; newer, and I didn't want to stay there as it seemed a little too western. Both The Palce and The Tower share common facilities however, it's just where your tastes lie that determine what wing you'll stay in.
Sound: Shpongle, "When Shall I Be Free" from "Nothing lasts...But Nothing"
The Gatway to India at night
Sound: Shpongle, "Shnitzled in The Negev" from "Nothing lasts...But Nothing"
Meanwhile, just around the corner
Colaba Causeway hums....
Sound: Air, "Playground Love" from "The Virgin Suicides"
Sound: Air, "Playground Love" from "The Virgin Suicides"
Bombay street food rules!
Just wandered down the street from The Taj and found this place
I had vegtable tikka on saffron rice, with garlic nan. A lassi and some mango ice cream to finish it all off.
Sound: Andre Kraml, "Safari" from "Tiefschwarz: Misch Masch"
I had vegtable tikka on saffron rice, with garlic nan. A lassi and some mango ice cream to finish it all off.
Sound: Andre Kraml, "Safari" from "Tiefschwarz: Misch Masch"
Elephanta Island
Today I took a boat to Elephanta Island, which is located in Mumbai Bay, a little over one hour east of Bombay.
Although it's a game and nature preserve I was really interested in The Caves which feature temples and carvings dug from the stone rock face, taking advantage of natural cave structures. Both of my guide books and Wikipedia all disagree with each other, dating the creation of the fantasic statues anywhere from 400AD to 1260AD. You enter the caves from the top of the montain on Elephanta Island. It's a fair trek up, and some folks actually pay to have four guys carry them. I walked up.
I spent about two hours wandering around inside the caves once I got to the top of the mountain. They are stunning and I wish I'd come earlier and had brought a lunch. I might go back again - first boat out, last boat back type of trip, they are that intense.
Nifty boats washed up on shore near to the docks where you arrive.
These pictures hardly do the place justice. The statues are stunning, and I sat for about an hour just looking at them and imagining how they must have made them.
Lots of feral dawgs wandering about.
The family that feeds together....one thing all my guide books and Wikipedia do agree on is the monkey population. They are all over the place and if they want something they take it. I saw them grab both food and bottles of water from people more than once in the short time I was on the island. I'm just a dumb country boy, but I think a little rocksalt used liberally might just put a little respect for other living things back into these primates. They are nasty animals; one even came after me when I walked around a corner and surprised it taking a shit, and I was probably six or seven times it's body mass.
Two little guys hugging
This guy got an ear of corn and went up a tree rather than share...
I'm back at the hotel and pretty tired after a day of boat riding, mountain climbing and cave exploring. I'm gonna go back out, find some food from a local vendor, and settle down for a little reading someplace outside the hotel.
Sound: Various Artists from "Freeform Five: Misch Masch"
Although it's a game and nature preserve I was really interested in The Caves which feature temples and carvings dug from the stone rock face, taking advantage of natural cave structures. Both of my guide books and Wikipedia all disagree with each other, dating the creation of the fantasic statues anywhere from 400AD to 1260AD. You enter the caves from the top of the montain on Elephanta Island. It's a fair trek up, and some folks actually pay to have four guys carry them. I walked up.
I spent about two hours wandering around inside the caves once I got to the top of the mountain. They are stunning and I wish I'd come earlier and had brought a lunch. I might go back again - first boat out, last boat back type of trip, they are that intense.
Nifty boats washed up on shore near to the docks where you arrive.
These pictures hardly do the place justice. The statues are stunning, and I sat for about an hour just looking at them and imagining how they must have made them.
Lots of feral dawgs wandering about.
The family that feeds together....one thing all my guide books and Wikipedia do agree on is the monkey population. They are all over the place and if they want something they take it. I saw them grab both food and bottles of water from people more than once in the short time I was on the island. I'm just a dumb country boy, but I think a little rocksalt used liberally might just put a little respect for other living things back into these primates. They are nasty animals; one even came after me when I walked around a corner and surprised it taking a shit, and I was probably six or seven times it's body mass.
Two little guys hugging
This guy got an ear of corn and went up a tree rather than share...
I'm back at the hotel and pretty tired after a day of boat riding, mountain climbing and cave exploring. I'm gonna go back out, find some food from a local vendor, and settle down for a little reading someplace outside the hotel.
Sound: Various Artists from "Freeform Five: Misch Masch"
Monday, December 19, 2005
Sunset on Chowpatty Beach, Bombay, India
I'm headed back to the hotel to shower, then I'm gonna find this kebab cart I passed in the street last night. He was cooking these really mean looking vegtable kebabs that smelled WONDERFUL.
Sound: Roni Size, "Morse Code" from "Reprazent"
Don't ask me what it is
'Cause I don't know. Just enjoy it like I did.
Sound: Moving Fusion, "Turbulence" from "Drum & Bass Arena"
Just a little kitten
running feral. About six others were on the other side of the fence, playing with each other. They ran off when I tried to get a pic.
Sound: Robert Armani, "Ambulance Two" from "Hit Hard"
I'm buying mine NOW
Bargain prices.
Sound: Moby, "Porcelain" from "Chilled Ibiza"
I don't know what her trip was....
She kept touching my tattoos, running her fingers along the outline and saying something in some language I sure as hell don't speak. Nice smile though.
Sound: Mylo, "Musclecar" from "Freeform Five: Misch Masch"
Nice guys
They saw me struggling with a map and came rushing over to help.
Sound: Roni Size, "Brown Paper Bag" from "Reprazent"
Who needs Viagra?
Just see this guy, he'll engineer you a solution....
Sound: Roni Size, "Watching Windows" from "Reprazent"
This guy kept trying to sell me a new shirt!
And I kept telling him I already had one. Not sure why he was so pushy....
Sound: Roni Size, "Jazz" from "Reprazent"
Clean drinking water
is a real problem here, so much that anyone who can afford it drinks bottled water or, at home, has it delivered via trucks like these.
Sorta puts our own problems into perspective, doesn't it?
Sound: Roni Size, "Digital" from "Reprazent"
Sorta puts our own problems into perspective, doesn't it?
Sound: Roni Size, "Digital" from "Reprazent"
There was a huge queue of people on the other side...
of this truck, but didn't want me to photograph them. Nice of the Indian government to bring health clinics to those folks who otherwise wouldn't get to the hospital for a checkup. I read in the local papers they do this very, very aggresively in the countryside as well.
I'm headed back to the hotel, gonna put on my play clothes and head west for the day, over to a part of Bombay called "The Back Bay". It's another place where few tourists goeth so naturally as soon as I read that this destination went straight to the top of my list. Don't like looking at European tourists when I'm on holiday....sorta defeats the entire purpose of visiting a developing nation, eh?
Sound: Sweet Light, "Abusator" from "Fleucht"
Meet Aziz
He runs a place called "Diplomat Tailors". It's about a twenty minute walk away from the hotel, headed south. This is the storefront, in case you're ever in Bombay and wanna say "Hey!".
He was reccomended by an ex-pat friend, and Aziz tells me he's been in this business for 62 years. He's gonna make me some suits and shirts.
You know how when you go to a western retail shop and they spend like three minutes measuring you? Aziz took over thirty on me! Best of all is the price: about 90 Pounds Sterling per suit, about eight pounds per shirt. Ready in 48 hours. The do "rush" service for a small premium, ready in 24 hours. The highest premium gets you the fastest suit: TWO HOURS.
Damn Aziz that's fast!! He's got my measurements on file now, and I can call him from London and tell him to send over whatever I want in the future - suits, shirts, etc. Strong incenctive to watch my weight.
Sound: NONE - Aziz must create in silence.
Indian justice is HARSH dude.
So how will they get the damn car out if the tyres are flat?
Sound: Think Twice, "ITWFM" from "Tiefschwarz: Misch Masch"
Provisions
I'm off to see a tailor reccomended by a friend that used to live in Bombay, and I picked up some goodies for breakfast.
Still taking almost all my meals from local street vendors or restaurants, and still haven't gotten sick. What else can I say but Mutant's are tough MoFos.
Sound: Agricantus, "Hala Hala" from "Nirvana Lounge"
Still taking almost all my meals from local street vendors or restaurants, and still haven't gotten sick. What else can I say but Mutant's are tough MoFos.
Sound: Agricantus, "Hala Hala" from "Nirvana Lounge"
It's Official!!!!
Even Indian cats think it's too damn hot!!
Sound: Drama Society, "Papa Luciani's Strange Death" from "Tiefschwarz: Misch Masch"
Sunday, December 18, 2005
Just stayed at the hotel today...
doing some MBA stuff, sitting poolside, sipping Margaritas and managed to fit in no fewer than TWO full body massages. Yes my friends, life is tough.
It's touches like this that make one appreciate a high end hotel. Fresh flowers all over my suite every day give it a pleasant scent.
I'm still not sure what's up for tomorrow. I've been trying to get a booking on this safari, but it hasn't been possible yet. Once booked me and the guide (he speaks the language, I don't) will go to this game park up north, maybe two hours outside of Bombay where there are lions and tigers and cougars all roaming about. Get in a jeep and drive fast! Monkeys and Cobras as well, but I'm more a cat person than a reptile person...summin to do with a warm caring heart....
Sound: Vitalic, "Ok Cowbow"
It's touches like this that make one appreciate a high end hotel. Fresh flowers all over my suite every day give it a pleasant scent.
I'm still not sure what's up for tomorrow. I've been trying to get a booking on this safari, but it hasn't been possible yet. Once booked me and the guide (he speaks the language, I don't) will go to this game park up north, maybe two hours outside of Bombay where there are lions and tigers and cougars all roaming about. Get in a jeep and drive fast! Monkeys and Cobras as well, but I'm more a cat person than a reptile person...summin to do with a warm caring heart....
Sound: Vitalic, "Ok Cowbow"
Saturday, December 17, 2005
Cheap eats
the sign sez 50 rupees for a bird. At 79 ruppes to the Pound Sterling, 49 rupees to the US dollar that's an entire chicken for, well you figure it out. Way cheaper than back home, and probably better for you as well. No factory farming of animals here...
Sound: CIIPZ, "Slippery Slope" from "FABRICLIVE.22:Scratch Perverts"
It's so damn hot!
I wanna crawl up besides them and sleep as well! It gets HOT here....most everybody seems to sleep a lot during the day, and move about at night when it's about 30 degrees cooler.
Sound: Mr. Vegas, "Pull Up" from "Freeform Five: Misch Masch"
These guys kept following me
as I was walking through a small fishing village out in the southern part of Bombay. At one point there was a crowd maybe about a dozen on my trail. I don't think they'd ever seen a Mutant before - lot's of pointing and touching my tattoos.
I stopped and had one take this pic. Not sure why that little guy was so affectionate and yeah Maw, I did wash my face and hands pretty throughly afterwards (as soon as I was out of sight so they wouldn't be offended).
Sound: Underworld, "Blueski" from "Second Toughest in the Infants"
Wow!
He's just as fascinated with me as I am with him. Not sure what all the body & facial painting is about though....
Sound: Vitalic, "Tratison" from "Ok Cowboy"
Now that's using your head!
Sound: Underworld, "Confusion The Waitress" from "Second Toughest in the Infants"
Heading south
I decided to head south today, to see what's going on in the other part of town. I bought some bread and bannanas from this local vendor. I've been taking all my meals from local vendors, and haven't had a problem...knock on my wooden head.
Sound: Underworld, "Pearls Girl" from "Second Toughest in the Infants"
Religious stuff
is found all over the place here in Bombay. I always ask permission before photographing and while I've never been refused, it always seems appropriate.
Lots of locals now worship this handsome god in the foreground...
Sound: Underworld, "Sola Sistim" from "A Hundred Days Off"
Lots of locals now worship this handsome god in the foreground...
Sound: Underworld, "Sola Sistim" from "A Hundred Days Off"
Friday, December 16, 2005
Another day winding down
back at the hotel, taking a brief walk before heading inside I saw these boats placidly drifting in the water.
Sound: Underworld, "Rowla" from "Second Toughest in the Infants"
I hate to see stuff like this.....
Sound: Bob Marley, "Exodus" from "Lengends Remastered"
Shots from the dense Bazzars
Holy cow!
Or so they told me.
Sound: Morcheeba, "The Sea" from "Part of the Process"
Crawford Market
I was guidless Friday, so I hopped into a local taxi (always agree the fare FIRST!) and headed uptown, to Crawford Market. Established by the British in 1890, it's totally different from the open air street markets surrounding it. Of course I really wanted to visit the open air bazzars just north of Crawford (where few tourists goeth...), so it was good starting point.
Sound: Snap!, "The Power" from "School Disco"
Thursday, December 15, 2005
Another view from North of Bombay
Really nice up here. The guide and I stuck around for maybe one hour then he drove me back down to the hotel. I was pretty tired after a pretty long day.
Sound: Thompson Twins, "Doctor Doctor"
A Jain temple
Wow this was an awesomely beautiful and serene temple. I spent maybe one hour here, watching the various ceremonies. I didn't feel comforable intruding and taking pix (unlike some of the idiot tourists that not only took pix, but also used flashes and TALKED REALLY FUCKING LOUD!) but this was one beautiful and serene place.
Sound: Orbital, "You Lot" from "Blue Album"
Popular with the local cats...
Same small village, this kid was cleaning some fish. The local cats and a few stray birds gathered to feed off the guts as he tossed them aside.
Sound: Orbital, "I Wish I Had Duck Feet" from "Snivilisation"
A place for ashes....
Another small village in North West Bombay, maybe one hour out of the city proper. According to my guide, locals here burn their dead and scatter the ashes in a rather large pool. They bathe in this pool of water two or three times a day. Interesting.
As they were having a furneral ceremony and folks were greiving, I didn't feel comfortable trying to photograph the pool itself. But I did take these pix of the temple ajoining the water.
Sound: Orbital, "Sad But True" from "Snivisation"
Gandhi's house
the home where Gandhi lived in Bombay is now a museum. It's small and jam packed with his books, his letters and an engrossing diarama of his life. His bedroom there has been untouched since he went out and got assasinated. Most fascinating of all - he wrote letter to both Rooselvelt and Hitler, trying to get both sides to sit down, and talk to avoid WWII.
Sound: Orbital, "Halycon And On And On"
Chowpatty Beach, Northern Bombay
Further north, away from the city. It's supposed to be really crowed most sunsets. It was too sunny so even the Indians were in the shade.
A small fishing village
in North West Bombay, just on the outskirts of the city.
View of the city centre's skyscrapers south and west of this village.
Fisherman tending his nets.
The guys working on this boat told me they'd get it back in the water in a few more weeks....
View of the city centre's skyscrapers south and west of this village.
Fisherman tending his nets.
The guys working on this boat told me they'd get it back in the water in a few more weeks....
Open air laundry
About 400 people, all men, work at this open air laundry. Storefronts around Bombay collect the clothes, send them here and these guys wash them by hand. Dried in the open air, they are returned to the storefronts in a couple of hours. FAST.
Sound: Orbital, "Are We Here?" from "Snivilisation"
Wednesday, December 14, 2005
Getting dark
Another pic of the Gateway, this time with the moon closing in. I'm pretty shot after a full day of walking about on my own. Tomorrow I've hired a tour guide with a car, and I'll be able to get further out. This city is ENORMOUS!
These birds
Are all over the place. And they ain't afraid of people. I got about three feet away from him and he stood his ground. And they are BIG.
And who cleans up after him?
Behind Victoria Terminus there was this litter of no fewer than six puppies roaming about. Mama wasn't in sight, they were doing whatever the hell they wanted to as this guy demonstrates. When he finished in proper doggie style he sniffed it and then was on his way to play with the other puppies.
Ah! The life of a feral dawg in Bombay.
Victoria Terminus
WOW!
Now I've got an Indian Mobile
I bought myself an Indian pay-as-you-go SIM for my phone. Call me if you'd like! I'm at +91 982 019 8677 . Way cheaper than using my UK based mobile when I'm calling Bombay local numbers...
Sound: Vitalic, "Repair Machines" from "Ok Cowboy"
Propane anyone?
They don't have the infrastructure (yet) to support gas lines, so here you get it from a door to door Propane Sales man. He walks about shouting out something in Hindi (I suspect), all the while banging on an empty cylinder with a wrench. You'll see a woman from an upper floor shout out something, he stops, leaves his full load in the busy street and heads up to sell her some fuel.
Sound: Vitalic, "My friend Dario" from "Ok Cowboy"
Where's mama?
You'll see scenes like this all over Bombay. Little kids, some as young as three or four on their own, with no watchful adults nearby. As soon as they see a Westerner almost always they make a beeline, arms outstretched and commence to beggin.
Taking it easy
First full day, just walking about the local 'hood and slowly adjusting.
Another dawg that found a convenient place to sleep....
They like to decorate their trucks. I think it's pretty neat...ours look so utilitarian by comparison...
Another dawg that found a convenient place to sleep....
They like to decorate their trucks. I think it's pretty neat...ours look so utilitarian by comparison...
The Taj from street level
This place is a monster. I have no idea how many rooms & suites it's got, but it has seven restaurants, at least two pubs (that I've found - give me time), a resident tailor for custom made suits (Yep, part of the reason I'm here in India to begin with), and even a FORTUNE TELLER. Heh.
Some proper clothing
and the beggars don't bother me so much any more. In fact some of them wanna give me money. Can't imagine why......
Tuesday, December 13, 2005
HOT.
This pup has the right idea.
Everywhere you look dogs are sleeping in the heat. I suspect the cats are doing the same, but are probably hiding. I'm going back to the hotel for dinner, drinks and to sleep off my jet lag.
Sound: Vitalic, "Phoney Part I" from "Ok Cowboy"
Everywhere you look dogs are sleeping in the heat. I suspect the cats are doing the same, but are probably hiding. I'm going back to the hotel for dinner, drinks and to sleep off my jet lag.
Sound: Vitalic, "Phoney Part I" from "Ok Cowboy"
Gateway of India
Pretty jet lagged after the flight, I had to go on a walk about. This is the Gateway of India, a ceremonial arch built by the British in 1924. Their last regiments left (cerimonially one would hope) through in it 1948. It's an impressive structure, but I was immediately accosted by beggars, hawkers and self-proclaimed Holy Men.
Nifty suite
Standard suite, comes with a Microsoft Media Centre PC, 42" Plasma Screen TV, four speakers (on the ceiling) and a HUGE subwoofer. Guess I won't be watching DVDs on my Mac each night....
The bed and living area are downstairs. The bath and some closets are upstairs. Suites aren't too bad here, about the same amount room as The Four Seasons, just arranged differently (two floors for starters).
Nice welcome letter from the General Manager. This hotel gives you complimentary bottled water and a fruit platter every day. If you're like me and don't eat much in the AM, it makes for a perfect breakfast....
Yes. I do travel with lots of cash. Bad experience in Frankfurt back in the early 90's and besides lots of places in this part of the world they don't take plastic. No, nobody's gonna take it away from me. Ok, let me rephrase that. They might take it away from me, but they're gonna get beat to hell taking it (side note: November 2004 in London I was getting out of black taxi and some asshole ran up, sucker punched me in the face then tried to wrench my gold Rolex off my arm. For the asshole that was as good as it got, I kicked him all over Commercial Road).
The bed and living area are downstairs. The bath and some closets are upstairs. Suites aren't too bad here, about the same amount room as The Four Seasons, just arranged differently (two floors for starters).
Nice welcome letter from the General Manager. This hotel gives you complimentary bottled water and a fruit platter every day. If you're like me and don't eat much in the AM, it makes for a perfect breakfast....
Yes. I do travel with lots of cash. Bad experience in Frankfurt back in the early 90's and besides lots of places in this part of the world they don't take plastic. No, nobody's gonna take it away from me. Ok, let me rephrase that. They might take it away from me, but they're gonna get beat to hell taking it (side note: November 2004 in London I was getting out of black taxi and some asshole ran up, sucker punched me in the face then tried to wrench my gold Rolex off my arm. For the asshole that was as good as it got, I kicked him all over Commercial Road).
Baby watch OUT!!!
My driver was going some 75 mph down the road, and this motorcycle passed us. Nothing strange about that. ZOOMED by. Nothing strange about that. With a woman on the back. Nothing strange about that. But CARRYING a baby? Hmmmm.
Holy shit! The motorcycles driver was swerving around these potholes and crap.
I still cringe just thinking about what would happen should he hit a pothole and the woman become unbalanced, start fumbling for a handhold. Or if her robes would somehow get caught in the machines gears....where's a cop when you need one?
Holy shit! The motorcycles driver was swerving around these potholes and crap.
I still cringe just thinking about what would happen should he hit a pothole and the woman become unbalanced, start fumbling for a handhold. Or if her robes would somehow get caught in the machines gears....where's a cop when you need one?
The Taj sent a car
First images of Bombay. I really wanted to take some in the arrivals terminal of the airport, but didn't want to draw attention to myself by using my camera.
Lot's of tourists get ripped off into taking one of these rickshaws. Nice ride, but they can't enter the city limits - something the driver won't tell you at the start...
Lot's of tourists get ripped off into taking one of these rickshaws. Nice ride, but they can't enter the city limits - something the driver won't tell you at the start...
Somewhere above Afghanistan....
No wonder they can't find Bin Laden - just look at that landscape!
Keep in mind these pix were taken from 39,000 feet or so....pretty rugged and lot's of room to disappear down there.
Keep in mind these pix were taken from 39,000 feet or so....pretty rugged and lot's of room to disappear down there.
Monday, December 12, 2005
In flight
Neat pix of the in-flight navigation system. Taken somewhere far above The Middle East. Quality sucks as I couldn't use a flash, since most everyone was asleep.
Nifty. It's a nine hour flight to Bombay, and the flight will be arriving in about seven hours...time to get some sleep...
Nifty. It's a nine hour flight to Bombay, and the flight will be arriving in about seven hours...time to get some sleep...
Last updated, January 18th 2005
you know what this is so deal with it....bitch
Your host
The Hideous Mutant!
Links I like
The Wikipedia entry on Bombay.
Lonely Planet's view on Bombay
Other trips
Mutant's other holidays.
What I'm reading
Between work and my MBA program, I don't have much time to read while in London. Here are two non-work, non-Uni books I brought with me for poolside reading.
Production credits
All content prepared at the lovely Taj Mahal Palace Hotel in Bombay, India.An Apple PowerBook was used to create these web pages.
Photos taken with a Canon A75 digital camera.
An Archos AV400 was used for intermediate digital storage.
iPhoto was used for digital photo organisation, preliminary editing and retouching.
iTunes provided the sound.
As usual, I'd like to thank Apple Computer for a totally positive, hassle free and very technologically advanced computing platform.
So, YOU! You, uhh, don't use a Mac? Huh? Well do you use any type of Unix based computer? Eh? Hmmmm, this is a special message just for you, you unwashed savage...
Weather in Bombay?
Here's a quick summary. Click the image to find out more.
